WWOOF #4 - Martinborough

Dec. 5th - Dec. 13th

Martinborough is probably the 2nd most well-known wine region in the country only behind the Marlborough region on the south island. We arrived on a sunny day and seemed to bring the good weather with us. This tiny town has sprung up almost entirely to support the wine industry, with heaps of wineries within walking distance and plenty of cafes/eateries at the center of town.

Simon and Amanda live about 15km outside the city in the surrounding hills. A cute little house on 15 acres, home to sheep, goats, chickens, dogs, cats, and a cow. Of course, they have a small vineyard as well, and manage 2 vineyards in town, and manage a main wine retailer in town, and sell wine-making equipment, and they have a newborn (Bella - 8 months). They have their hands full, but were eager to make us feel welcome and introduce us to their way of life (stopping short of changing and feeding the baby).

Keris in the front paddock of the house, tending to the new vines and the sheep.

Sunset over the house.

Fantastic meals every night (as well as good, hearty breakfasts and lunches), a comfy bed in the main house, and high-speed internet. We were in heaven.

It was easy getting back into the rhythm of the vine work our first days on the job. Pinot Noir is the famed regional variety, and we had our hands full pruning the mature vines and weeding around the new ones. They willingly shared their vast knowledge of winemaking and vineyard maintenance, as well as the nightly tastings with dinner which sometimes included their own vintages.

We really wanted to see some of the surrounding countryside, so took time to head north to the mountains and made our way back to Waiohine Gorge on rugged dirt roads. The mountainous forests and rivers reminded us of Oregon. To start our hike, we had to cross a 200 foot long suspension bridge that hung more than 100 feet in the air over the river - this massive structure was built deep in the forest, and we were shocked to find such structures this remote. The next day was hot and sunny, so we took the road south the end of the island - literally. The furthest point south was Cape Palliser and housed a lighthouse atop the cliffs. We ascended the steep set of stairs and were rewarded with a spectacular view that reached the south island. The beaches here are also home to the only permanent colony of fur seals on the north island. We were able to get fairly close and just sit and watch them sunbathe, play in the water, and care for the new pups. Occasionally we'd be hiking around the rocky shore and practically stumble onto a giant seal - reminding us there was no fence in the wild, and we needed to be sure to keep our distance. We ended the day with a long 2 hour hike up to the Putangirua Pinnacles to see the amazing rock formations similar to the Badlands (also site of the Lord of the Rings). Years of erosion left these amazingly tall spires and sharp walls behind.

In the middle of the giant suspension bridge. Good thing it wasn't windy.

Lighthouse at Cape Palliser, the souhtermost point on the North Island.

View from the lighthouse.

The sand along the beach at Ngawi (closest village to the lighthouse) is too soft for tractors, so there are lots of bulldozers of all sorts lining the beach to tow the fishing boats out of the water.

Fur seal colony, up close and dangerous (and cute).

Some views of the Putangirua Pinnacles

We did do work here as well, mostly on Pinot Noir vines. We weeded around the new vines growing at our hosts' house, pruned the 2 other properties they manage, as well as attempted to train the longer branches in a huge wind storm so they didn't break off. Due to our additional interest in beer, Amanda was so generous as to make arrangements with a local brewmaster at Peak Brewery so we could go and work for him one day! We drove up to Masterton and met Rhys, the owner, brewer, bottler, and labeller (primarily a one-man show) for his small operation and helped out with bottling and labeling for him. He produced some of the best all-around beers we've ever had, utilitizing organic ingredients and recipes he's crated over many years, including an IPA that is aged in oak barrels, fantastic!

On the bottling line.

Thanks to Rhys at Peak Brewery! Keep up the great work.

We definitely didn't want to miss out on wine tasting considering the shear number of local wineries in town, so we finally made it out for a few visits and had a fantastic time learning all about the region's finest (picking up a few bottles along the way).

We had an incredible time, and it was hard to say goodbye. Though there are heaps of wineries, Martinborough lacks its own brewery.... aaah the possibilities for us to return.

Thank you Simon, Amanda, and Bella!